Top Tips Tuesday: "I know I am not supposed to touch your dog . . . "

One of the more challenging things that the Teams in our program deal with is well meaning people coming up to them in public and distracting their dogs.  Bear in mind, for the Paws and Stripes program, until they complete their Final Assessment, dog and veteran are still learning.  Even after graduation, it may be a rough day for the veteran, requiring the dog to be extra diligent.  So, here are some friendly tips to help all you well meaning people out there to make it easier for all those service dog teams when they are out and about.

1) Ignore the dog

Pretend that it is not there.  This is more than "not touching".  Anything that could take the dog's focus off of their job is a potential problem for their handler.  Kissing noises, snapping fingers, talking to them, bending over them, petting, pointing it out to your screaming child so that s/he stops, you name it-if it could distract the dog, don't do it.

2) Don't bother the Team

Please remember that the person has a service dog to help them accomplish everyday tasks that are made difficult because of their disability or disabilities.  It may be all that person can do to get to the store to pick up a few much needed supplies.  This probably does not include talking to every stranger they come across as they walk through the store.  For all you dog lovers and/or patriots out there that are compelled to say something, try something that is not intended as a conversation starter.  A "beautiful dog", "thank you for your service", or bright smile and a nod is a way to let the Team know you appreciate them without drawing them into a full blown encounter.  

3) About petting the dog . . .

So, you can't help yourself and you just HAVE to ask if you can pet the dog . . . tip one and two have flown out the window!  If you find yourself in this situation, you need to know that even answering that question may be taxing to the handler.  I have gotten to the point where I decide right when I walk out the door whether that day is going to be a day where I will let people pet my dog based on how I am doing that day.  Then, I try to reassess periodically throughout the day in case things have taken a down turn.  This way, I don't have to try an figure out if it is a bad idea or not when I am asked.  Some people are very liberal and allow almost anyone who asks to pet their dog.  I'll be honest, if asked, I would have to classify myself as conservative.  Now, a lot of that is based on how I am doing, but there is a part that is based on my dog.  Treun LOVES people and is still very young so he tends to feed off of the excited energy strangers give off when they are allowed to touch him.  He is still learning to stay calm.  Cura has always been a little standoffish and (apart from a few people) tends to stay pretty calm when greeting.  So, your chances of getting to greet Cura are higher at this point than Treun.  But that is an age and length of working thing.  

Just remember . . . that service dog is out there for the person with the disability.  If they do not let you pet their dog, it is not personal.  That decision has nothing to do with you and everything to do with what is best for the team!

Top Tips Tuesday: Let's talk "aversive"

It's a huge debate in the dog training world . . .

Call me optimistic, but I want to believe that, in general, dog trainers want to do what is best for the dogs they train.  Which, ideally, translates to doing no harm.  If this is the case, why is there such an uproar about "aversive" training methods.  You may notice that I put quotations around the word aversive.  This is because there are so many training methods and equipment that are considered humane by some and aversive by others.  For example, many trainers classify things like shock collars and prong collars as aversive, while others argue that they are humane if used properly.  How, if we can not come up with a common understanding of what is humane and what is aversive, can we find common ground for discussion?

So . . . what makes a training method or technique "aversive"?

Personally, I define aversive training using a very broad brush stroke.  It is not just about inflicting pain or scaring the dog (although that is certainly aversive) . . . it is also about using any kind of interaction that is unpleasant to the dog.  The key words here are "unpleasant to the dog".  If your dog's body language indicates that they are not enjoying the interaction, then what you are doing can fall under the umbrella of "aversive" whether that is your intention or not.

For example, I have had clients that are very enthusiastic when they give their dog physical affection.  They ruffle the ears roughly, pound on the chest, or any number of other actions that could easily be overwhelming to a dog, depending on their nature.  Some of these clients have dogs that revel in this more "rough housing" kind of handling while others have dogs that want nothing to do with that kind of interaction.  These dogs, instead of responding as desired to a recall,  refuse to take those last few steps to bring them into reach of the handler.  Usually, the handler misses the fact that the dog is trying to please by coming closer while simultaneously trying to avoid the physical "mauling" that takes place when they get within arm's reach of their handler.

Let's say you treat train.  What would you say if I suggested that it is possible to be aversive when using treats for training?  Well, what if your dog hates the treats you are using!?  I have one dog that is crazy about ANY food . . . fruit, veggies, meat.  I honestly do not know of anything that she has turned her nose up on.  However, I have another girl who HATES carrots and most fruits.  How effective do you think my training would be if I decided to treat train her using carrot pieces.  Because she finds carrot unpleasant, using them as a reward when training would, in affect, be aversive!  However, not actually inhumane, since carrots are good for her, but they would have the effect of applying something unpleasant causing a behavior to be suppressed. No wonder the whole debate can be both confusing and filled with emotions!

Bottom line. . . be careful when using training methods that are unpleasant for your dog . . . studies show that the results you get may not be the ones you want!  For more information on potential results of aversive training click here.

Top Tips Tuesday: "Place"

Teaching your dog to settle in a spot that is out of the way is an invaluable skill.  It can help with all sorts of things.  Unpleasant behaviors such as crazy greetings or flipping out when the doorbell rings can be addressed using this skill.  On top of that, it is a great way to keep your dog out from underfoot when you are cooking or working on a project that they are bound and determined to "help" you complete. But how can you teach your bouncy pup to lay still in a particular place?

1) Determine where your pup's place will be
There are a number of ways to do this, but I prefer to use something portable.  Mainly because this allows me to create a "place" no matter where I am because where I put that object is where they need to park.  For this purpose you can use a number of things: yoga mat, towel, travel bed, bath mat, neoprene mat -- basically anything that your dog can lay on in comfort and is easy to transport.  If you choose not to have the place be portable, be sure to put some thought into your location choice.  You want to make sure it is in a safe place for the dog (not underfoot or in a traffic way) but in a location that is not removed from the rest of the activity.  On top of that, you need to be very clear in your own mind where your dog's place is.  If you are not precise, then your dog's placement will be sloppy and therefore, less effective in keeping your dog safely out of the way.

2) "Charge" the place
In other words, associate good things with their place.  Maybe that is the only place that they get to chew on a favorite chewy or cuddle with a favorite toy.  The important thing is that they are given or get to do something that they enjoy.  Some people like to used clickers and/or treats.  What is important is that going to their place means good things happen.  If you don't make being on their place fun, they will have no desire to go there.

3) NEVER use their place as a punishment!
This is one of the reasons you should not choose a location that is away from the rest of the family.  Dogs are social creatures so removing them from all of the activity works as a form of punishment.  On top of that, you want them to be excited about going to their place, not unhappy.  If you use their place as a punishment, you will find that your dog will resist going which makes this skill ineffective as a solution for unwanted behavior.

4) Reward baby steps
I think this should be on the tip list for EVERYTHING we teach our dogs!  Don't just reward perfection, especially during the learning process.  You may have to start of rewarding your dog for putting one foot on their place and gradually build up to standing with all four feet on the place.  Once you get them standing on their place consistently, then work on getting them to sit, then down, and finally stay for increasingly longer periods of time.  Remember, it will take several practice sessions in different locations to ensure that your dog has generalized any skill or behavior.  After all, going to their place at home while everyone is relaxing for the evening is VERY different than going to their place during a birthday party!

Top Tips Tuesday: Rewards

When using a reward based training system, it is important to understand what works as a reward for your dog.  Every dog is different and it is your responsibility to figure out what things motivate your dog.  At the same time, it should not be something so wonderful that your dog becomes overly excited and stops listening. So, how do you figure out what your dog likes?

1) Know your dog's body language.
Remember, you are trying to reward your dog.  Make sure your dog's body language reflects enjoyment!  I frequently see handlers being very energetic with their praise even when it is freaking their dog out because they don't like to be handled that way.  If your dog is not enjoying what you are doing, it is not working as a reward and instead of encouraging a behavior, you will be causing your dog to avoid doing the very thing you are trying to train.

2) Be creative!
Sure, food is frequently a reward for dogs -- especially high value treats.  But what if your dog is not food motivated (believe me, it happens) or you just don't want to use food as a reward? What do you do then?  I like to do something with my dogs that they like.  Scratching that special place is a good fall back but it is important to mix things up.  Many dogs love to sniff.  Believe it or not, this can be used as a reward.  Ask your dog to walk with you ignoring all the distractions and then give them a sniff break!  Play fetch, hide and seek, a special voice that tells them that they did something correctly.  There are as many rewards as there are ideas, just make sure your dogs enjoy what you use.

3) Make a list.
I like to write things down.  If there are several people in your home, make a list and keep it on the fridge so everyone knows the ways your dog likes to be rewarded.  You will be surprised how many items you can come up with.  Make it a contest!

4) Know when to take a break.
Remember, your dog has to stay calm in order to follow your cues.  Over excitement works against you.  Things like fetch or tug-o-war may not be the best choices if your dog looses its mind during these games.  My boy can get so excited when playing fetch that he starts jumping on me and trying to grab the object instead of waiting for me the throw it.  So I have to be very careful and give him breaks when he starts to get excited.

5) Remember it is not about you!
The reward is for your dog, not you.  Don't do something because it makes you feel good unless it also makes your dog happy.  If you want your dog to do something for them, you have to make it worth their while.  Just because you like something doesn't mean your dog does!

Top Tips Tuesday: Manners

Most times, when people think about dog training, they think of obedience.  Things like sit and stay.  But there is more to dog training than just getting the dog to perform "tricks" (even if they are practical "tricks, like sit).  After all, your dog is not always going to have someone around to tell it what to do.  Even if you are with your dog, you are not telling it what to do every second of the time you are together.  But you DO expect a certain level of behavior from your dog even if you are not expecting it to follow a particular cue.  Here are some things that help your dog to learn basic manners.

1) Know what proper manners are to you

Just like with training obedience/skills, having a clear idea of what manners you want from your dog is the first step. What are the "house rules" and how will everyone know what is to be rewarded?  It helps if you put this in writing.  Even if it is not a problem behavior in need of fixing, be prepared!  Just because you do not have small children in the home does not mean that you don't have to teach your dog the proper way to interact with a child-what happens when the nieces and nephews come to visit in the holidays?  Make sure your "rules" provide clear guidelines. For example, when greeting a person, my dog must stay in a sit. Not: when greeting a person, my dog must be friendly. (My friendly and your friendly could be very different, so we might reward different behavior and confuse the dog.). Every adult in the household needs to agree with the house rules and be willing to reward appropriate behavior and discourage inappropriate behavior. V

2) Reward calm behavior

If the only time you engage with your dog is when they are excited or behaving badly, you are teaching your dog that excitement and bad behavior is what gets your attention. Naturally, your dog will resort to these things when he wants your attention, because you are (unintentionally) encouraging it. Don't just ignore your pup when he is calmly laying by your side this is a time to reinforce calm behavior. Be careful that your reward does not cause the dog's excitement to rise. If your praise causes your dog to jump up and bounce around the room (or on you) you are defeating the purpose!

calm. 

3) Reward small improvements

Just like you would reward small successes in behavior training, it is important to reward small improvements in behavior. If your dog loves to chase the cat, only rewarding him for completely ignoring the fluffy moving object will result in a lot of frustration on your part and a looooong learning process for your pups. If your dog stops straining at the end of the leash, but still jumps up and lunges toward the cat when it angers the room, this is an improvement and must be rewarded. Gradually increase the reward criteria and your dog's behavior will improve quickly.

4) Keep your dog BELOW threashhold

Ok, so this is a technical training term for controlling the dog's environment and exposure to manageable levels. If your dog is so wound up that it can't think and is only running on instincts and adrenaline-she is over threashhold. Learning can not take place if the dog is running solely on instincts. They need to be able to think in order to learn. That is why using distance in socialization is so successful-the dog gradually learns proper behavior around a trigger and the trigger is slowly brought closer while always keeping a distance that the dog can handle without losing it. Understanding a dog's boy language is key to this step so either become fluent yourself or contact a good behaviorist in your area to help you. 

5) Be patient

This requires understanding. It will take time to teach your dog proper manners. Even if they come from a home where they were well behaved, you will need to teach him the rules of your household. Remember, you have to set your dog up for success so you MUST fulfill his needs.  A dog can not be clam if you do not provide an outlet for his energy. Nor can he be calm if you do not teach him to be.  Reinforce the behavior you want and you will find spending time with your dog is one if the most pleasant things on earth!

Top Tips Tuesday: Teaching a skill

I frequently get the question "How do I teach my dog to (insert skill here)?  The fact is that, like people, not every dog learns the same way. We have come to realize that every dog has a unique cognitive makeup which means that there is no single, universal, step-by-step way to teach a dog a skill and guarantee that it will work for all dogs.  (If you want more on dog cognition, check out The Genius of Dogs: How Dogs are Smarter than youThink by Vanessa Wood and Brian Hare).  But there ARE basic things that you can do that will increase your success regardless of how your dog learns.

1) Make a plan!

Don't just start training!  Be sure you think about what you are going to do BEFORE you work with your dog.  What skill(s) will you work on? What rewards/penalties will you use? What proficiency level warrants a reward? After all, if you are not clear in your own mind about what you expect from a training session, how is your pup supposed to figure it out?!  Establish your teaching structure before you start the hands-on work.

2) Be flexible

Even though you have a plan, be ready to adjust things on the fly!  Don't allow your dog to continually "fail" because you are not flexible in what your are asking or how you are asking for it!  If, for whatever reason, your dog who could bore holes in your face with his eyes for 15 seconds because he was so focused can barely maintain eye contact for 2 seconds today -- stop expecting 15 seconds!!!  Start rewarding for 2 seconds of focus,  This serves two purposes . . . first, your dog is having a positive training experience so you are building confidence and positive associations with you AND training sessions.  Second, you avoid getting irritated and labeling your dog as "stubborn" or difficult.  Every creature has good days and bad days -- just because your dog had a higher level of proficiency earlier does not mean that the skill is solid or that they are little robots and will ALWAYS perform perfectly!!!  Which brings me to the next tip.

3) Have realistic expectations

Your dog is a living, breathing creature -- NOT an infallible machine.  Just because your dog knows how to sit does not mean it understands to do it when you say the word "sit".  Even if they understand what the cue means, it doesn't mean they will do it perfectly every time.  (What if you are asking them to sit on a cold surface?  They may, understandably, refuse completely or sit but pop up again immediately.)  Sometimes, our expectations do not take into consideration that our dogs have needs as well and if we want their best behavior, we need to be realistic about what we are asking them to do for us and when.  Going back the to focus . . . even if your dog can always hold eye contact for 15 seconds when they are at home does not mean that they can do that when you are in a park with dogs and kids playing around them!  Be realistic and adjust your expectations to the situation and gradually build your dog's proficiency around higher and higher challenges.

4) Control your frustration

This does not mean "be perfect" -- after all, if you are going to allow your dog to make mistakes, you should give yourself the same courtesy.  Frustration happens . . . but you should avoid letting it affect your training session.  If you find yourself getting frustrated, change your plan and your expectations.  Take a moment and analyse what is happening.  Are you confusing your dog by mixing cues?  Is there another way you can communicate to your dog what you want from them?  Is what you are doing too much of a leap for the dog to make -- do you need to break the skill down further?  If you find that your frustration is getting the better of you, ask the dog for something that you KNOW it can do and end the training session on success.  One I like to do is get the dog's attention (I am purposely being vague here).  Name recognition is something that is usually fixed very early in the relationship and only requires the dog to acknowledge that you are addressing them.  So, I say the name and if the dog gives me a split second of attention that is a success!  It is asking for very little from the dog AND further reinforces the dog responding to their name.

5) Make it fun

We frequently make the mistake of classifying "training time" with our dogs as "WORK" and viewing success as the dog consistently getting better at doing what we say, when we say it.  But we also expect our dogs to be a source of joy and relaxation in our lives -- that can be difficult to achieve if the time spent training is "work" that is measured by performance standards.  Speaking generally, dogs want to please us and make us happy (this is not universal, but THAT is a discussion for another post).  Sure, from the point of the "student" it is better to learn in a fun and engaging way, but this is also true of the "teacher".  If you enjoy the "game" of training, your dog will be more engaged and WANT to train with you.  Remember this when you make your plan -- create a training plan that is fun for both you and your dog!  Enjoy yourself and each other!

Time for a regular, new series!  Starting today I will start posting training tips and information on Tuesdays.  Anyone interested in a particular training issue -- feel free to mention it in the comments and I will put it on my list of upcoming topics.

This week: What to do BEFORE you bring a dog home.

1)  Decide that you are committed to caring for another living creature for their ENTIRE life!

The minimum life expectancy of an otherwise healthy dog is 7 years (giant breeds) while the maximum is 16+ years (small dogs).  In the Paws and Stripes program, we use dogs that fall into the medium/large category so life expectancy is 10-13 years.  Now, I have had dogs most of my life, all of them have been medium to large in size and all of them lived to 13+ years. Part of that has to do with genetics while the other part has to do with how they were treated.  The point is:  If you are getting a dog, be prepared to care for them until they pass away.  Too many dogs end up in shelters because people move, have a baby, don't have time, etc. and the dog no longer "fits" in their lives.  I see it all the time and it breaks my heart!

2) Analyse your life style.

Are you extremely active? A couch potato? Somewhere in between?  How many people live in your household and what are their ages?  Is EVERYONE on board with the idea of including a dog in the family?  These are just a few of the many questions you need to ask yourself before you start looking for a dog.  Some dogs need a lot of exercise, others are happy laying on a nice bed in front of a fire most of the day.  If you have very young children or live with a person that has physical limitations, it might be better to avoid a high energy dog.  Regardless of your life style, you MUST have time to train your dog.  If you can not take considerable time over the next 6-12 months training a dog and reinforcing that training, it is not likely that ANY dog will fit into your life style.  Most dogs (even seniors) do not come pre-trained.  You will have to do the work and if you don't, that dog probably will end up back where you got it in short order.

3) Research . . . then research . . . and research some more
Now that you are committed to care for a dog until it's natural life is over and you have a clear idea of the life style it is time to decide what kind of dog will fit well in your household.  You may be interested in a particular breed or size of dog.  Be realistic.  Know what you are getting in to!  If you do not have a lot of space and you can't exercise a lot with your dog, don't get a Husky!  They love to run and like to do it as much as possible.  But don't just assume because a dog is a particular breed that they will follow the "breed specifications".  Every dog is and individual and they don't always fit nicely into categories.  If you can't provide the environment that your dog needs, neither you or your dog will be happy.

4) Decide where to go.
"Kill" shelter; "No-kill shelter"; Rescue; Breeder; Pet store; neighbor; Store front . . . there are many places that you can get a dog.  Some are better than others (don't get me started on puppy mills).  Regardless of what you decide, make sure you have done your research!  Don't just research types of dogs . . . research where you decide to go to get your dog.  Ask for references, tour the facilities, make sure you are comfortable with the way the dogs are cared for before you take them to you home.  Ask questions like: How often are the dogs getting exercised?  What type of enrichment do they receive?  The environment you get  your dog from will affect them, so make sure you know what that looks like so you can decide if you can provide your new family member with what it needs.

5) Prepare your home.

This is really a non-stop activity, but is particularly important before you bring your dog home.  If you don't want your dog to chew on shoes or clothes, make sure these things are not left where the dog can get to them.  Hate counter surfing -- don't leave yummy morsels on the counter!  Prepare a cozy space for your dog to sleep (I am a strong proponent of them sleeping in the bedroom, though not on YOUR bed).  Check your property for things that may be hazardous to your dog (plants, pesticides, etc.) and that the fences and gates are well maintained and will not allow your dog to escape.  It is important, particularly in the early months of integrating a new dog into your home, to limit the ways that your new family member can make mistakes.  If the temptation is not there, then it is easy to avoid it.  Look at your house from a dog's perspective . . . do you have valuable nick knacks on the coffee table where they can be toppled by a dog's wagging tail? Instead of trying to keep the dog from whacking them, put them where they are safe from sweeping tails, at least at first and maybe forever.  If you don't want to prepare your home and maybe change some things about it, make sure you add that into the information you include in #2 above . . . if you don't, your new pup may be the source of many frustrations that could have been avoided.