Some things change, some things stay the same(ish)

Well, August is almost here.  Where in the heck has 2015 gone!

We have a few changes happening in August, mainly in preparation for increasing our numbers as our new Associate Trainers finish start to move from the "training" phase of their probation and into the "doing" phase.  Once our new additions are ready, we will be able to handle more teams in training at one time.  Of course, we are very excited and looking forward to assisting more veterans and dogs.  It also means that our current class structure needs some adjustments to ensure everyone is getting the best service possible for such a large group.  One of the things that will help this restructuring is our budding mentor program.

Summer can be a hard time to make changes because kids are out of school, vacations happen, and generally it is a time of regeneration and recreation for people.  Despite that, we have quite a bit of interest from graduates about the mentor program.  Things should really pick up in August once the kids go back to school.  It is going to be wonderful for enrollees to have access to graduates of the program who have had similar experiences and struggled to the ones they are facing while going through training.  I have already seen some benefits with the limited contact that has taken place already and can't wait to see our graduates in action as things pick up.

Then there is Celebration of Heroes coming up at the end of August!  Time to honor our graduates and recognize all those wonderful people who make what Paws and Stripes does possible.  Each year this event gets better.  Basically, it is a big ol' party and we love it.  Work hard/play hard...see some things stay the same(ish).

Craziness!

My goodness, so much has been going on here at Paws and Stripes. I have barely managed to keep up with the other social media duties and CLEARLY the blog has taken a back seat.  But, I think I may have managed to adjust to all the new developments and am back into some kind of routine (fingers crossed).  There is much to share, but I am going to do it in installments so the posts stay on the "quick and easy to read" side of things.

For those who get the Paws and Stripes Newsletter, this blog will be taking the place of "From the DoE's Desk"  in addition to other topics as they come up.  Posts will range from program updates to general training or service dog related topics (and maybe the odd wild hair, just because).

Nathan Savage

Now for the first bit of BIG NEWS!  A few months ago, Paws and Stripes received a grant which provided funding for additional trainers and since then, we have been in the process of hiring.  I am happy to announce that, between May 1 and July 1 our Training Department almost doubled in size! We now have three new Associate Trainers going through their probationary period working a total number 73 hours per week between them. That means that once they are fully trained, we will be able to DOUBLE the number of Teams we can enroll in the program at any given time!

Dianna Franco

Ariel Madrigal-Wisely

We are very excited about the prospect of increasing our capacity.  Each new Trainer has their own strengths and will enhance the program in their own unique way.

As I have done in the past, I will dedicate a whole post to each of them in the months to come.  But here is a little teaser to give you a taste of our new talent and what each of them brings to the table:

Nathan 

served as a United States Marine and is a Paws and Stripes Graduate.  He and his service dog Pepper finished the program in January 2012.

Ariel 

was one of our  interns and impressed us so much that we asked her to become a member of staff.  She has a degree in Psychology and Anthropology and experience working with individuals with various medical conditions.

Dianna 

has experience training pets at an international pet store chain and has an education in companion animals and introductory speech pathology studies.  She relocated from over three hours away to join the Paws and Stripes family.

Normally, I prefer more candid shots, but I am breaking the newbies in slowly so everyone got a few seconds warning that the camera was coming out.  I even let them mess about in front of a mirror before they got to pose for their pictures.

I hope they enjoyed it because it probably won't happen that way very often in the future!

Muahaha!!  

Meet our Family!: Yvette Magee

Yvette and Ludo

Next in our "meet the family" series is Yvette Magee.  Our most recent Senior Trainer, Yvette has been with us since August of 2012.  She is an amazing addition to the Training Department and our "hands-free" advocate.  She loves to help strengthen that bond of confidence and trust between veteran and dog by using hands-free control.  Here is a bit about Yvette...

1) What made you decide to become a Paws and Stripes Trainer?

Hmm. Let me think. That was a long time ago! I liked the idea of working with dogs while using my previous background and including the “medical” element of working with TBI & PTSD.  I also thought it would be a challenge that allowed for personal growth.  I was looking forward to gaining knowledge that I could not get, otherwise.

2) What do you like most about working at Paws and Stripes?

I definitely have to say it’s the comradery, the atmosphere and my coworkers.  I love the fact that we are listened to and our opinions are valued.  I have seen some of my ideas developed since I have been here.

On top of that, service dog training for veterans makes me feel like I am supporting people who have dedicated their lives for our freedom.

3) What do you find most challenging about working at Paws and Stripes?

It can be hard watching the Teams struggle.  It is frustrating when a veteran does not realize their dog’s potential which can happen throughout the program, especially in the beginning or when they hit a wall.

4) How is Paws and Stripes service dog training different from pet training?

The expectations for the dogs are very different because they are relied on by the veteran.  The skills learned must be spot-on so the Team can be successful in public situations.  When training pets, there is a lot more leniency because most people do not put their pets in such challenging circumstances.

5)  What are your short term goals?

In the near future, I plan to pass the CPDT-KA test, lead my first dog assessment, and continue to develop my skills working with reactive dogs.

6) Do you have any message for the people out there?

Remember that service dogs are essential to the wellbeing of their handlers.  Allowing Teams to go about their business with discretion and respect helps the dog to stay focused and lets the handler lead a productive life.

Top Tips Tuesday: "I know I am not supposed to touch your dog . . . "

One of the more challenging things that the Teams in our program deal with is well meaning people coming up to them in public and distracting their dogs.  Bear in mind, for the Paws and Stripes program, until they complete their Final Assessment, dog and veteran are still learning.  Even after graduation, it may be a rough day for the veteran, requiring the dog to be extra diligent.  So, here are some friendly tips to help all you well meaning people out there to make it easier for all those service dog teams when they are out and about.

1) Ignore the dog

Pretend that it is not there.  This is more than "not touching".  Anything that could take the dog's focus off of their job is a potential problem for their handler.  Kissing noises, snapping fingers, talking to them, bending over them, petting, pointing it out to your screaming child so that s/he stops, you name it-if it could distract the dog, don't do it.

2) Don't bother the Team

Please remember that the person has a service dog to help them accomplish everyday tasks that are made difficult because of their disability or disabilities.  It may be all that person can do to get to the store to pick up a few much needed supplies.  This probably does not include talking to every stranger they come across as they walk through the store.  For all you dog lovers and/or patriots out there that are compelled to say something, try something that is not intended as a conversation starter.  A "beautiful dog", "thank you for your service", or bright smile and a nod is a way to let the Team know you appreciate them without drawing them into a full blown encounter.  

3) About petting the dog . . .

So, you can't help yourself and you just HAVE to ask if you can pet the dog . . . tip one and two have flown out the window!  If you find yourself in this situation, you need to know that even answering that question may be taxing to the handler.  I have gotten to the point where I decide right when I walk out the door whether that day is going to be a day where I will let people pet my dog based on how I am doing that day.  Then, I try to reassess periodically throughout the day in case things have taken a down turn.  This way, I don't have to try an figure out if it is a bad idea or not when I am asked.  Some people are very liberal and allow almost anyone who asks to pet their dog.  I'll be honest, if asked, I would have to classify myself as conservative.  Now, a lot of that is based on how I am doing, but there is a part that is based on my dog.  Treun LOVES people and is still very young so he tends to feed off of the excited energy strangers give off when they are allowed to touch him.  He is still learning to stay calm.  Cura has always been a little standoffish and (apart from a few people) tends to stay pretty calm when greeting.  So, your chances of getting to greet Cura are higher at this point than Treun.  But that is an age and length of working thing.  

Just remember . . . that service dog is out there for the person with the disability.  If they do not let you pet their dog, it is not personal.  That decision has nothing to do with you and everything to do with what is best for the team!

Top Tips Tuesday: Let's talk "aversive"

It's a huge debate in the dog training world . . .

Call me optimistic, but I want to believe that, in general, dog trainers want to do what is best for the dogs they train.  Which, ideally, translates to doing no harm.  If this is the case, why is there such an uproar about "aversive" training methods.  You may notice that I put quotations around the word aversive.  This is because there are so many training methods and equipment that are considered humane by some and aversive by others.  For example, many trainers classify things like shock collars and prong collars as aversive, while others argue that they are humane if used properly.  How, if we can not come up with a common understanding of what is humane and what is aversive, can we find common ground for discussion?

So . . . what makes a training method or technique "aversive"?

Personally, I define aversive training using a very broad brush stroke.  It is not just about inflicting pain or scaring the dog (although that is certainly aversive) . . . it is also about using any kind of interaction that is unpleasant to the dog.  The key words here are "unpleasant to the dog".  If your dog's body language indicates that they are not enjoying the interaction, then what you are doing can fall under the umbrella of "aversive" whether that is your intention or not.

For example, I have had clients that are very enthusiastic when they give their dog physical affection.  They ruffle the ears roughly, pound on the chest, or any number of other actions that could easily be overwhelming to a dog, depending on their nature.  Some of these clients have dogs that revel in this more "rough housing" kind of handling while others have dogs that want nothing to do with that kind of interaction.  These dogs, instead of responding as desired to a recall,  refuse to take those last few steps to bring them into reach of the handler.  Usually, the handler misses the fact that the dog is trying to please by coming closer while simultaneously trying to avoid the physical "mauling" that takes place when they get within arm's reach of their handler.

Let's say you treat train.  What would you say if I suggested that it is possible to be aversive when using treats for training?  Well, what if your dog hates the treats you are using!?  I have one dog that is crazy about ANY food . . . fruit, veggies, meat.  I honestly do not know of anything that she has turned her nose up on.  However, I have another girl who HATES carrots and most fruits.  How effective do you think my training would be if I decided to treat train her using carrot pieces.  Because she finds carrot unpleasant, using them as a reward when training would, in affect, be aversive!  However, not actually inhumane, since carrots are good for her, but they would have the effect of applying something unpleasant causing a behavior to be suppressed. No wonder the whole debate can be both confusing and filled with emotions!

Bottom line. . . be careful when using training methods that are unpleasant for your dog . . . studies show that the results you get may not be the ones you want!  For more information on potential results of aversive training click here.

Meet our Family! Josh Kendall

I thought it might be nice to introduce you to the amazing people that make up the Paws and Stripes family.  I am going to start with one of our dedicated Trainers, Josh Kendall.  Actually, Josh is more than just a Paws and Stripes Trainer, he is also a graduate of the program.  He is an excellent example of how the Paws and Stripes program can change a Veteran's life for the better. So, here is a bit about Josh . . .

1) What made you decide to become a Paws and Stripes Trainer?
The people.  When I went through the program, I experienced the people working at Paws and Stripes. I had a lot of challenges in my program and I had to get very good at dog handling and stay persistent.  Many times I called someone at Paws and Stripes saying that the program was too hard and I wanted to withdraw.  But, I didn't really want to quit, I just needed the encouragement to continue.  Everyone at Paws and Stripes was very supportive and when I graduated I wanted to give back to the program. So, when I was approached about the possibility of becoming a Trainer, I jumped at the chance.

2) What do you like most about working at Paws and Stripes?
Again, the people.  This is not what I would call a typical job.  The supervisors listen and everyone understands my disabilities.  That makes a big difference to me and makes it easier to come to work each day.

3) What do you find most challenging about working at Paws and Stripes?
I guess the hardest thing for me is to avoid taking work home and taking the Teams' struggles home with me.  I know it is not an easy program, but I also know what a difference graduating has made in my life so I want everyone to succeed.  It can be hard for me to see them struggling.

I do have trouble coming up with the words to provide clear instructions.  I know what I want to say and it is clear in my head, but it doesn't always come out that way when I speak-especially if I am working in front of a group.  It can be frustrating, but I am getting better and it helps to work with people who are patient and give me the space to work it out.

4) What are some of the benefits you experienced while going through the Paws and Stripes program?
Ha . . . let me count the ways!  There are a lot of them, but I will give you the "big" ones.
-I learned to talk about how I was doing instead of bottling things up until I blew.  Now, instead of pushing through and burning out, I have learned to pace myself and accept when I need to give myself a break.
-It opened up communication with my family and friends.  Now, they have a better understanding of what I deal with on a daily basis.  They have all commented on how much I have changed since I got Gromit and went through the program.
-I go out in public now.  That is something I hardly ever did . . . and ONLY when absolutely necessary.
-I have been employed with Paws and Stripes for almost 2 years.  This is the longest I have managed to keep a job since I separated from the Marines.
-I have developed a deep appreciation for dogs.  Before entering the program, I was not a big dog lover.  In fact, I was so uncomfortable around them, I thought Gromit was going to eat my face while I was sleeping!

5)  What are your short term goals?
I want to keep training for Paws and Stripes, of course.  But I am also preparing to that the CPDT-KA exam (a national certification for dog trainers) to add to my ABCDT certification.  After that, I will probably pursue the CPDT-KSA certification.

6) Do you have any message for the people out there?
Live in the present, not the past.  Plan for the future, don't worry about it
!

Top Tips Tuesday: National Train Your Dog Month

Wow!  Such a busy week!  It has been so crazy at the office that I almost didn't manage to post today.  Better late than never!

January 2015 is the fifth annual National Train Your Dog Month. According to APDT (Association of Professional Dog Trainers), they developed the campaign to shed light on the benefits and enjoyment of training and socializing one's dogs. In honor of this amazing idea, I want to give everyone some hints that I keep in mind when dog training. 

1) Keep in mind that training is more than introducing a behavior or skill. 

"Teaching" (associating a behavior or action with a cue) is just the first step!  Once the dog knows what a cue means, it is important to continually reinforce this "teaching" by practicing the skill in different locations and scenarios. If you want your dog to respond to a cue with consistency, you need to provide many opportunities to reinforce what you taught them.  This, too, should be considered training; NOT just the 6 class puppy or basic training you attend right after getting your dog. Training is a daily activity that is part of your daily interaction with your dog.

2) Don't train when you are in a hurry or frustrated.

It can be hard, in our fast paced lives, to slow down and relax. Spending time training your dog is a wonderful way to give yourself permission to take a break (after all, you are working on improving your dog)!  On top of giving yourself a break from the daily chaos and irritations, slowing down and relaxing makes you more fun to be around which means your dog will be more inclined to WANT to engage with you and respond to the cues you give.  Rule of thumb: don't do it if you are trying to rush out the door or are upset about something (including the fact that your dog is not getting it - frequently descibed by the handlers as their dog being "stubborn" or "mad").

3) Keep training "sessions" short.

Out of necessity, when you work with a trainer, you frequently have one hour (or more) training sessions.  But when you are working with your dog without a trainer, it is best to work with your dog in spurts throughout the day instead of big chucks of time at once. Believe it or not, this is much easier than having to find a full hour all at once everyday. Instead break it up. Ask you dog for skills when you are engaging with them anyway. For example, reinforce the sit by asking for it before releasing to eat, putting on the leash, going out the door to potty, getting in or out of the car, etc. Make it a game by seeing how many opportunities you can find to reinforce a skill.  Create a competition between family members and be creative with the prizes (like the winner gets to have someone else do a hated household task for them such as doing the dishes, cleaning up after the dog in the yard, taking out the trash, etc.)

4) Take advantages of the resources out there. 

There are wonderful resources available from reputable trainers online. As long as you are an informed consumer, you can get some great information.  National organizations like APDT and individual trainers like Pat Miller of Peaceable Paws put all kinds of tips, webinars, and instruction online free of charge.  Just make sure that the training methods and philosophies being promoted serve to strengthen your dog's bond with and trust in you. For example, APDT has some great stuff available this month at http://trainyourdogmonth.com/tips/

Top Tips Tuesday: "Place"

Teaching your dog to settle in a spot that is out of the way is an invaluable skill.  It can help with all sorts of things.  Unpleasant behaviors such as crazy greetings or flipping out when the doorbell rings can be addressed using this skill.  On top of that, it is a great way to keep your dog out from underfoot when you are cooking or working on a project that they are bound and determined to "help" you complete. But how can you teach your bouncy pup to lay still in a particular place?

1) Determine where your pup's place will be
There are a number of ways to do this, but I prefer to use something portable.  Mainly because this allows me to create a "place" no matter where I am because where I put that object is where they need to park.  For this purpose you can use a number of things: yoga mat, towel, travel bed, bath mat, neoprene mat -- basically anything that your dog can lay on in comfort and is easy to transport.  If you choose not to have the place be portable, be sure to put some thought into your location choice.  You want to make sure it is in a safe place for the dog (not underfoot or in a traffic way) but in a location that is not removed from the rest of the activity.  On top of that, you need to be very clear in your own mind where your dog's place is.  If you are not precise, then your dog's placement will be sloppy and therefore, less effective in keeping your dog safely out of the way.

2) "Charge" the place
In other words, associate good things with their place.  Maybe that is the only place that they get to chew on a favorite chewy or cuddle with a favorite toy.  The important thing is that they are given or get to do something that they enjoy.  Some people like to used clickers and/or treats.  What is important is that going to their place means good things happen.  If you don't make being on their place fun, they will have no desire to go there.

3) NEVER use their place as a punishment!
This is one of the reasons you should not choose a location that is away from the rest of the family.  Dogs are social creatures so removing them from all of the activity works as a form of punishment.  On top of that, you want them to be excited about going to their place, not unhappy.  If you use their place as a punishment, you will find that your dog will resist going which makes this skill ineffective as a solution for unwanted behavior.

4) Reward baby steps
I think this should be on the tip list for EVERYTHING we teach our dogs!  Don't just reward perfection, especially during the learning process.  You may have to start of rewarding your dog for putting one foot on their place and gradually build up to standing with all four feet on the place.  Once you get them standing on their place consistently, then work on getting them to sit, then down, and finally stay for increasingly longer periods of time.  Remember, it will take several practice sessions in different locations to ensure that your dog has generalized any skill or behavior.  After all, going to their place at home while everyone is relaxing for the evening is VERY different than going to their place during a birthday party!

Amazing People

One of our trainers had a wonderful experience while they were out training with one of our teams. For those who don't know, we frequently train out in public which can be very challenging for veteran, dog AND trainer!  Understandably, people see us in the stores and are curious so we get all sorts of reactions when we are out. Every encounter is a training experience, but sometimes the team that we are with are not ready for a particular scenario and the interaction makes the session more difficult than intended. So we never know if an encounter is going to help or hinder the learning process.

However, on this instance, the person had excellent sevice dog etiquette.  He was an employees and when he caught sight of the first team (we had two in the store that day), he approached and asked if they needed help finding anything. Before leaving he asked the trainer if they were with Dogs of War.  When he learned that they were, the employee burst into a big smile, stating that he watched the show every week and he loved it.  He walked away, beaming and was still beaming when he came in sight of the second team working in the store, but he didn't approach them.

Why was this wonderful?  The employee did not interfere with the training sessions.  He was polite and asked a couple of quick questions and then left BOTH teams alone after only speaking to one. He is one of those amazing people who appreciate the work that is being done and understand that they should not interfere with the service dog.  This employee is in the same group of people as those wonderful parents who explain to their children that they can not pet that puppy because it is working.

Thank you, amazing people!!

Top Tips Tuesday: Rewards

When using a reward based training system, it is important to understand what works as a reward for your dog.  Every dog is different and it is your responsibility to figure out what things motivate your dog.  At the same time, it should not be something so wonderful that your dog becomes overly excited and stops listening. So, how do you figure out what your dog likes?

1) Know your dog's body language.
Remember, you are trying to reward your dog.  Make sure your dog's body language reflects enjoyment!  I frequently see handlers being very energetic with their praise even when it is freaking their dog out because they don't like to be handled that way.  If your dog is not enjoying what you are doing, it is not working as a reward and instead of encouraging a behavior, you will be causing your dog to avoid doing the very thing you are trying to train.

2) Be creative!
Sure, food is frequently a reward for dogs -- especially high value treats.  But what if your dog is not food motivated (believe me, it happens) or you just don't want to use food as a reward? What do you do then?  I like to do something with my dogs that they like.  Scratching that special place is a good fall back but it is important to mix things up.  Many dogs love to sniff.  Believe it or not, this can be used as a reward.  Ask your dog to walk with you ignoring all the distractions and then give them a sniff break!  Play fetch, hide and seek, a special voice that tells them that they did something correctly.  There are as many rewards as there are ideas, just make sure your dogs enjoy what you use.

3) Make a list.
I like to write things down.  If there are several people in your home, make a list and keep it on the fridge so everyone knows the ways your dog likes to be rewarded.  You will be surprised how many items you can come up with.  Make it a contest!

4) Know when to take a break.
Remember, your dog has to stay calm in order to follow your cues.  Over excitement works against you.  Things like fetch or tug-o-war may not be the best choices if your dog looses its mind during these games.  My boy can get so excited when playing fetch that he starts jumping on me and trying to grab the object instead of waiting for me the throw it.  So I have to be very careful and give him breaks when he starts to get excited.

5) Remember it is not about you!
The reward is for your dog, not you.  Don't do something because it makes you feel good unless it also makes your dog happy.  If you want your dog to do something for them, you have to make it worth their while.  Just because you like something doesn't mean your dog does!

Top Tips Tuesday: Manners

Most times, when people think about dog training, they think of obedience.  Things like sit and stay.  But there is more to dog training than just getting the dog to perform "tricks" (even if they are practical "tricks, like sit).  After all, your dog is not always going to have someone around to tell it what to do.  Even if you are with your dog, you are not telling it what to do every second of the time you are together.  But you DO expect a certain level of behavior from your dog even if you are not expecting it to follow a particular cue.  Here are some things that help your dog to learn basic manners.

1) Know what proper manners are to you

Just like with training obedience/skills, having a clear idea of what manners you want from your dog is the first step. What are the "house rules" and how will everyone know what is to be rewarded?  It helps if you put this in writing.  Even if it is not a problem behavior in need of fixing, be prepared!  Just because you do not have small children in the home does not mean that you don't have to teach your dog the proper way to interact with a child-what happens when the nieces and nephews come to visit in the holidays?  Make sure your "rules" provide clear guidelines. For example, when greeting a person, my dog must stay in a sit. Not: when greeting a person, my dog must be friendly. (My friendly and your friendly could be very different, so we might reward different behavior and confuse the dog.). Every adult in the household needs to agree with the house rules and be willing to reward appropriate behavior and discourage inappropriate behavior. V

2) Reward calm behavior

If the only time you engage with your dog is when they are excited or behaving badly, you are teaching your dog that excitement and bad behavior is what gets your attention. Naturally, your dog will resort to these things when he wants your attention, because you are (unintentionally) encouraging it. Don't just ignore your pup when he is calmly laying by your side this is a time to reinforce calm behavior. Be careful that your reward does not cause the dog's excitement to rise. If your praise causes your dog to jump up and bounce around the room (or on you) you are defeating the purpose!

calm. 

3) Reward small improvements

Just like you would reward small successes in behavior training, it is important to reward small improvements in behavior. If your dog loves to chase the cat, only rewarding him for completely ignoring the fluffy moving object will result in a lot of frustration on your part and a looooong learning process for your pups. If your dog stops straining at the end of the leash, but still jumps up and lunges toward the cat when it angers the room, this is an improvement and must be rewarded. Gradually increase the reward criteria and your dog's behavior will improve quickly.

4) Keep your dog BELOW threashhold

Ok, so this is a technical training term for controlling the dog's environment and exposure to manageable levels. If your dog is so wound up that it can't think and is only running on instincts and adrenaline-she is over threashhold. Learning can not take place if the dog is running solely on instincts. They need to be able to think in order to learn. That is why using distance in socialization is so successful-the dog gradually learns proper behavior around a trigger and the trigger is slowly brought closer while always keeping a distance that the dog can handle without losing it. Understanding a dog's boy language is key to this step so either become fluent yourself or contact a good behaviorist in your area to help you. 

5) Be patient

This requires understanding. It will take time to teach your dog proper manners. Even if they come from a home where they were well behaved, you will need to teach him the rules of your household. Remember, you have to set your dog up for success so you MUST fulfill his needs.  A dog can not be clam if you do not provide an outlet for his energy. Nor can he be calm if you do not teach him to be.  Reinforce the behavior you want and you will find spending time with your dog is one if the most pleasant things on earth!

Top Tips Tuesday: Teaching a skill

I frequently get the question "How do I teach my dog to (insert skill here)?  The fact is that, like people, not every dog learns the same way. We have come to realize that every dog has a unique cognitive makeup which means that there is no single, universal, step-by-step way to teach a dog a skill and guarantee that it will work for all dogs.  (If you want more on dog cognition, check out The Genius of Dogs: How Dogs are Smarter than youThink by Vanessa Wood and Brian Hare).  But there ARE basic things that you can do that will increase your success regardless of how your dog learns.

1) Make a plan!

Don't just start training!  Be sure you think about what you are going to do BEFORE you work with your dog.  What skill(s) will you work on? What rewards/penalties will you use? What proficiency level warrants a reward? After all, if you are not clear in your own mind about what you expect from a training session, how is your pup supposed to figure it out?!  Establish your teaching structure before you start the hands-on work.

2) Be flexible

Even though you have a plan, be ready to adjust things on the fly!  Don't allow your dog to continually "fail" because you are not flexible in what your are asking or how you are asking for it!  If, for whatever reason, your dog who could bore holes in your face with his eyes for 15 seconds because he was so focused can barely maintain eye contact for 2 seconds today -- stop expecting 15 seconds!!!  Start rewarding for 2 seconds of focus,  This serves two purposes . . . first, your dog is having a positive training experience so you are building confidence and positive associations with you AND training sessions.  Second, you avoid getting irritated and labeling your dog as "stubborn" or difficult.  Every creature has good days and bad days -- just because your dog had a higher level of proficiency earlier does not mean that the skill is solid or that they are little robots and will ALWAYS perform perfectly!!!  Which brings me to the next tip.

3) Have realistic expectations

Your dog is a living, breathing creature -- NOT an infallible machine.  Just because your dog knows how to sit does not mean it understands to do it when you say the word "sit".  Even if they understand what the cue means, it doesn't mean they will do it perfectly every time.  (What if you are asking them to sit on a cold surface?  They may, understandably, refuse completely or sit but pop up again immediately.)  Sometimes, our expectations do not take into consideration that our dogs have needs as well and if we want their best behavior, we need to be realistic about what we are asking them to do for us and when.  Going back the to focus . . . even if your dog can always hold eye contact for 15 seconds when they are at home does not mean that they can do that when you are in a park with dogs and kids playing around them!  Be realistic and adjust your expectations to the situation and gradually build your dog's proficiency around higher and higher challenges.

4) Control your frustration

This does not mean "be perfect" -- after all, if you are going to allow your dog to make mistakes, you should give yourself the same courtesy.  Frustration happens . . . but you should avoid letting it affect your training session.  If you find yourself getting frustrated, change your plan and your expectations.  Take a moment and analyse what is happening.  Are you confusing your dog by mixing cues?  Is there another way you can communicate to your dog what you want from them?  Is what you are doing too much of a leap for the dog to make -- do you need to break the skill down further?  If you find that your frustration is getting the better of you, ask the dog for something that you KNOW it can do and end the training session on success.  One I like to do is get the dog's attention (I am purposely being vague here).  Name recognition is something that is usually fixed very early in the relationship and only requires the dog to acknowledge that you are addressing them.  So, I say the name and if the dog gives me a split second of attention that is a success!  It is asking for very little from the dog AND further reinforces the dog responding to their name.

5) Make it fun

We frequently make the mistake of classifying "training time" with our dogs as "WORK" and viewing success as the dog consistently getting better at doing what we say, when we say it.  But we also expect our dogs to be a source of joy and relaxation in our lives -- that can be difficult to achieve if the time spent training is "work" that is measured by performance standards.  Speaking generally, dogs want to please us and make us happy (this is not universal, but THAT is a discussion for another post).  Sure, from the point of the "student" it is better to learn in a fun and engaging way, but this is also true of the "teacher".  If you enjoy the "game" of training, your dog will be more engaged and WANT to train with you.  Remember this when you make your plan -- create a training plan that is fun for both you and your dog!  Enjoy yourself and each other!

Time for a regular, new series!  Starting today I will start posting training tips and information on Tuesdays.  Anyone interested in a particular training issue -- feel free to mention it in the comments and I will put it on my list of upcoming topics.

This week: What to do BEFORE you bring a dog home.

1)  Decide that you are committed to caring for another living creature for their ENTIRE life!

The minimum life expectancy of an otherwise healthy dog is 7 years (giant breeds) while the maximum is 16+ years (small dogs).  In the Paws and Stripes program, we use dogs that fall into the medium/large category so life expectancy is 10-13 years.  Now, I have had dogs most of my life, all of them have been medium to large in size and all of them lived to 13+ years. Part of that has to do with genetics while the other part has to do with how they were treated.  The point is:  If you are getting a dog, be prepared to care for them until they pass away.  Too many dogs end up in shelters because people move, have a baby, don't have time, etc. and the dog no longer "fits" in their lives.  I see it all the time and it breaks my heart!

2) Analyse your life style.

Are you extremely active? A couch potato? Somewhere in between?  How many people live in your household and what are their ages?  Is EVERYONE on board with the idea of including a dog in the family?  These are just a few of the many questions you need to ask yourself before you start looking for a dog.  Some dogs need a lot of exercise, others are happy laying on a nice bed in front of a fire most of the day.  If you have very young children or live with a person that has physical limitations, it might be better to avoid a high energy dog.  Regardless of your life style, you MUST have time to train your dog.  If you can not take considerable time over the next 6-12 months training a dog and reinforcing that training, it is not likely that ANY dog will fit into your life style.  Most dogs (even seniors) do not come pre-trained.  You will have to do the work and if you don't, that dog probably will end up back where you got it in short order.

3) Research . . . then research . . . and research some more
Now that you are committed to care for a dog until it's natural life is over and you have a clear idea of the life style it is time to decide what kind of dog will fit well in your household.  You may be interested in a particular breed or size of dog.  Be realistic.  Know what you are getting in to!  If you do not have a lot of space and you can't exercise a lot with your dog, don't get a Husky!  They love to run and like to do it as much as possible.  But don't just assume because a dog is a particular breed that they will follow the "breed specifications".  Every dog is and individual and they don't always fit nicely into categories.  If you can't provide the environment that your dog needs, neither you or your dog will be happy.

4) Decide where to go.
"Kill" shelter; "No-kill shelter"; Rescue; Breeder; Pet store; neighbor; Store front . . . there are many places that you can get a dog.  Some are better than others (don't get me started on puppy mills).  Regardless of what you decide, make sure you have done your research!  Don't just research types of dogs . . . research where you decide to go to get your dog.  Ask for references, tour the facilities, make sure you are comfortable with the way the dogs are cared for before you take them to you home.  Ask questions like: How often are the dogs getting exercised?  What type of enrichment do they receive?  The environment you get  your dog from will affect them, so make sure you know what that looks like so you can decide if you can provide your new family member with what it needs.

5) Prepare your home.

This is really a non-stop activity, but is particularly important before you bring your dog home.  If you don't want your dog to chew on shoes or clothes, make sure these things are not left where the dog can get to them.  Hate counter surfing -- don't leave yummy morsels on the counter!  Prepare a cozy space for your dog to sleep (I am a strong proponent of them sleeping in the bedroom, though not on YOUR bed).  Check your property for things that may be hazardous to your dog (plants, pesticides, etc.) and that the fences and gates are well maintained and will not allow your dog to escape.  It is important, particularly in the early months of integrating a new dog into your home, to limit the ways that your new family member can make mistakes.  If the temptation is not there, then it is easy to avoid it.  Look at your house from a dog's perspective . . . do you have valuable nick knacks on the coffee table where they can be toppled by a dog's wagging tail? Instead of trying to keep the dog from whacking them, put them where they are safe from sweeping tails, at least at first and maybe forever.  If you don't want to prepare your home and maybe change some things about it, make sure you add that into the information you include in #2 above . . . if you don't, your new pup may be the source of many frustrations that could have been avoided.

All aboard!

It takes time and consistency to train a dog.  Even if that dog is the family pet, it is very unlikely that your dog was the perfect, well behaved, angel you expected when you brought him home.  Puppy . . . adolescent . . . adult . . . shelter . . . rescue . . . breeder . . . even if they were fully trained, they needed to learn the new house "rules".

Regardless of how much your dog needs to learn when you bring them home, the key to success is getting everyone who will interact with your pup on the same page.  This requires PLANNING!  You have to figure out:
1) How do you expect your dog to behave?
2) What rules are they to follow (and exactly what does that look like)?

It is not enough to determine that your dog must be "friendly".  After all, behavior your 20 year old cousin sees as friendly might scare grandma half to death (or cause her to fall and break her hip)!  You need to decide what "friendly" LOOKS like so everyone knows when the dog is behaving in a way that deserves praise.  Then, you have to make sure everyone who interacts with your dog rewards acceptable behavior and not unacceptable behavior.

This is a picture of a note one of the Paws and Stripes staff left me after she had taken Treun out for a potty break when I was out of the office for a bit.  Before I go into detail about what a wonderful co-trainer Mandy is when she handles dogs in the office, I need to let you in on a few details.  "Good manners" translates to calm behavior such as sitting to greet, waiting to be leashed, walking calmly by handler's side, and not pulling (Treun is a little bit of a freight train when he is excited).  The big rule is that if dogs are in vest, they are working and must be treated as such (minimal interaction as is necessary to complete the task), out of vest they are fair game!

This is such a good example of a person working within the rules.  Mandy clearly reinforces desired behavior by ensuring that Treun behaves properly and she rewards him without causing him to get over excited.  She also adjusted her behavior by interacting with him more than she would normally because he was out of vest.  She also took the time to write a short "progress report" for me so I was aware of how he did while I was gone.  It is wonderful that everyone in the office loves dogs so much but still remembers that even if they are not the primary "trainer", they still have an important role to play in shaping the dogs that they encounter.  

If you are doing anything that helps to shape a dog's behavior, you are participating in the training process -- remember that when an owner corrects their dog for doing something to you that you don't mind . . . just because you don't mind a pup jumping up on you to say "hi" doesn't mean you should let him -- after all, remember grandma's hip!

Tension creates tension!

An important lesson to be learned when teaching a dog to walk nicely on a leash is to maintain a loose leash because if one puts tension on the leash, the dog will respond by pulling, or pulling harder.  A great way to teach your dog not to pull is to reinforce the idea that if they pull, progress in that direction ceases.  Some common methods used in leash training are standing still or turning in another direction.  Usually "non-aversive" methods use some variation of stopping movement in the desired direction and rewarding the dog for staying in the desired position.

But it is not just having a taunt leash that may cause your dog to pull!  There are at least two other forms of tension to which your dog may respond by pulling.  One of them, I realized long ago (with the help of other trainers) and the other I experienced more recently.

First, there is the tension in the handler.  Even if there is no tension in the leash and that wonderful "J" shape exists between the handler and the dog, the person's tension can move through the leash and transfer from the handler to the dog.  There are many types of tension that travel through the leash.  Something as simple as having a death grip on the leash or as complicated as being preoccupied by everything left undone for the day, can cause your dog to pick up the pace and practically drag you through that daily walk (or in the case of a service animal, the whole day).

But recently, I discovered another kind of tension that affected how well my dogs maintained a loose leash . . . a collar that was adjusted too tightly.  Treun recently went through another growth spurt and I had not noticed that this one had affected his neck size.  While his collars were not overly tight, they were more snug than before.  Once I adjusted them to give him a looser fit, I noticed that he tended not to pull as often.  Now, he is still challenged by high distractions when walking on leash, but the change was noticeable!

So remember, tension - no matter what the source - will contribute to your dog's desire to pull.  Keep the leash loose, stay relaxed, and keep those collars comfy!

Exercise!

Treun is full of energy and if he doesn't get his exercise he can be a pill!  Fortunately, I have managed to find many creative ways to help him burn his physical and mental energy because some days, traditional methods of dog exercise are just not an option.

One of my favorites is hiding things for him to find.  This is a variation on Canine Nose Work -- a newish dog sport that is becoming very popular.  What we do is not nearly as elaborate or as skilled, but it is something that Treun loves to do.  It helps him learn to problem solve, burns energy, and can be done with little to no exertion on my part.  There are lots of variations that I have been shown and I am able to develop the game to provide a constant challenge for Treun but taking my own limitations into account.

Another thing that he loves is having some serious doggie play time!  Fortunately, because I work with dogs for a living, he has plenty of opportunities to enjoy the company of other pups.  He has a great time playing chase or exploring a new smell.  I am seeing that he is getting a bit more selective about his playmates.  He has his favorites while with others he limits his interactions.  He still gets along well with most dogs, but not everyone is his best friend anymore.  Maybe he is growing up a bit!

When did THAT happen??

In the past couple of weeks, I have noticed that it is much easier to get Treun in and out of the car than it was in the beginning. "Of course" you may say. I have been working with him on it so why wouldn't it be better?  But I don't want to talk about how persistence gets results. I am more interested in reflecting on how we register those results.

As I look back, the actual process was gradual.  Once I was finally able to convince Treun that it was possible for him to jump in the car all on his own, the challenge began. He seemed to think that getting in the car was a license to play . . . hard. I had to pad my schedule by about 20 minutes for every time I had to load him into the car because that is how long it took for Treun to stop jumping around, playing tug with the seatbelt, and nipping at me trying to get me to play.  Ah, patience!

Even though I know the changes were gradual, it seems like just yesterday that I was trying to tame the wiggly fuzzy creature in my back seat.  At one point it became a bit of a spectator sport with co-workers hanging around at the end of the day to watch the adventure.  While the current process is not always flawless, there is usually a rhythm to it.  Treun no longer thinks it is time to play.  He positions himself so it is easier to put on his seatbelt and lifts his paws to help with the process.  But I never really registered all of the little pieces coming together.  Only my subconscious noted all of those little successes that gradually improved and came together until, one day, I realized how much the whole process had improved. 

Treun and I are at a point in the training process where he is doing a lot of things well which makes the things he is still learning seem more frustrating. It will make things easier for both of us if I do a better job of noticing all those little improvements. It is important to notice what still needs work, but FOCUS on the improvements!

Break Time!

It is amazing how quickly Treun is learning.   He is happy to try new things.  If I confuse him (something that I can easily manage to do - especially if I am pushing him too fast), he does not shut down, he just tries something else . . .what a trooper!

He is doing a wonderful job of picking things up for me.  He brings me his leash when I ask and picks up almost anything that is on the floor.  He even uses this skill to make me take much needed breaks at work.  First, he will sit and look at me, giving me the opportunity to be smart about it and take a break without his direct urging.  I must admit, this does not always work (bad handler!) so Treun will be a little insistent and start to wag his tail and grumble at me.  If I do not respond appropriately to THIS attention getting strategy, he pulls out all the stops and resorts to the one thing that always gets me to take a break . . . and to smile.

He finds something on or in my desk, grabs it, drops it on the floor, picks it up and gives it to me! Mission accomplished!  That always works . . . whether it is paperwork, the phone, or even his food bowl, I stop what I am doing and give myself a break!  Not him, though!  Treun gets to practice so it is possible that he is just bored and wants to do some training.  However, so far, his timing has been right on.  I have noticed that when he uses this trick, I really am in need of a break for some reason (stiffness, headache, hungry, thirsty, bathroom, etc.).  Smart boy!

Awww....and here he is!  Actually this is him when he was technically still a "foster".  He did not become mine officially until February 1, 2014.  That is when he got his new name.  

Keeping with the tradition, I drew from Scots Gaelic and named him Treun Bàn which translates to "Fair-haired Hero".  

The shelter listed him as a 2 year old Walker Coonhound/Retriever mix.  He was picked up as a stray so both age and breed are a wild guess.  Ultimately, I will get him genetically tested to get an idea of the breeds that make up my little Heinz 57.  But, for now, he is developing into quite the young dog.  Almost too smart for his own good and full of curiosity and energy.  Based on how much he has matured and grown/filled out since I got him, both my Veterinarian and I don't think he was two at the time -- maybe now . . . 

As you can see, He loves Cura.  You wouldn't know it from this picture, but Cura loves him, too.  I can't tell if Cura is barely tolerating having her picture taken, Treun getting in her face, or both in this shot.  Probably both!  

Transitions

I realized in early 2013 that my sweet girl was slowing down.  Don't get me wrong, she still LOVED to work, but the days were getting too long and too busy for her to handle easily.  Cura was always excited when she knew we were heading out and she always did amazing -- making things so much easier for me -- but things were changing.

It took a long time (about a year), but Cura finally picked her successor this past February.  A young man who wormed his way into our hearts as a foster . . . and just stayed.  Yes, I am officially a "foster failure".  But it was time and Cura and I seemed ready -- or so I thought.  I came to realize that neither of us were truly ready for the reality of this transition . . . but here we are . . . and Treun makes three! 

Tune in next time to meet the new man of the house . . .